Saturday, January 9, 2010

Kimono Critique



I think Amy Butler and Heather Ross have the same learning disability. Or, more accurately, teaching disability. Both of these well-known fabric designers have published enticing books of sewing patterns, full of gorgeous pictures that just beg you to dive in and start stitching. Oh, but once you do...sewists' hell awaits! These beguiling patterns are positively poisonous: incorrectly sized, full of errors, and difficult to construct. I've already ripped into Miss Butler's ineptitude elsewhere, so today I will reserve my wrath for Miss Ross.

Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross was a lovely gift from my husband, who shopped slavishly from my Hannukah list this year (yay!). I decided to start with the baby kimono because I've been itching to make one, having seen a great tutorial on the web and considered, warily, Butler's version. Things started well: there was just enough of fabric from my back-to-school dress (which I turned out to be too pregnant to wear for the first day of school!) to make a kimono from the sheer red paisley cotton, and I happened to have some fuschia bias tape on hand. So, the project was a stash-busting freebie.

Constructing the kimono, while quick, was a process riddled with pesky problems. The shoulder seams puckered awkwardly at the neck edges when I applied bias tape to the neck opening. Ditto with the underarm seam. I have never, ever seen a pattern with this problem - how did she manage to invent it? The last straw was the side ties, of which Ross directs us to make four. That's a lot of very stiff ties on a tiny shirt for a tiny person. And, as it turns out, two of them (to your right in the photo below) could easily be replaced by a much smoother and tidier snap.

I really want to support all the young, funky women who are bringing independent sewing into the modern world. I love reading craft blogs and supporting people selling original patterns and materials. But if you can't even give directions for a smooth sleeve, then big-brand patterns have earned their place at the top of the pecking order. Having just completed a much more successful baby item from a traditional pattern, the contrast felt especially stark.

Harry Potter Hoodie

Just the thing for junior sorcerers!
I don't really understand the point of vests. In particular, I don't understand the point of a hooded fleece vest at all. I mean, if it's cold enough for fleece and a hood, wouldn't you want sleeves? Are there people whose arms just get very, very hot? I do not have this problem.

In any case, I somehow ended up sewing a hooded fleece vest this past week. Here's why: I bought this great lilac-blue fleece in December, when I thought I'd have the motivation to make a hat for a friend's toddler as a holiday gift...but it didn't happen. Amazingly, the same 1/2 yard sufficed to make a whole vest. As I've mentioned before and more than once, this pattern (Simplicity 5316) is super. I added 2" to the length this time as the earlier iterations are getting a bit cropped-looking.

The color is beautiful on Jonah's skin and the pattern has a fun, Harry Potter feel to it. Now I need to practice finding occasions on which he can wear such an odd piece of clothing.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Pregnant Friends: Do Not Read

Sorry to be starting these last two posts with warnings, but I am trying to balance the recording of my current work with surprising some dear mama friends later this winter...

I've already established that my new baby present of choice is an appliqué onesie & pants set, so here are the results. Despite having had a somewhat miserable vacation of family illness, I managed to crank out four sets. These cover all expected births between now and my due date...thus clearing the ground for me to craft for my very own Quetsch. As I do not know the gender of any of these little ones-to-be, I made two very girly sets and two basically-boyish-but-flexible sets. All 100% cotton, size 6 months.

Girly sets both look like this, from Alexander Henry fabric (which you can sometimes find at JoAnn - thrilling!):

Basically boyish sets look like this:
I am a polar bear despite my pointy snout!
and this: